budapest for the weekend

Budapest receives two thumbs way up for it's excellent role in our three-day weekend. The city is gorgeous and in November happens to be fairly devoid of tourists. The wind whipped a little and there were a few raindrops on the way home from our shockingly good Mexican dinner (more on that later) but there was no reason not to be enjoying this fine city along the Danube, in the midst of fall. With autumn colors in the trees and leaves blanketing the sidewalks, Budapest had the November personality that we really miss about Chicago.

The easiest way to describe Budapest is that it is at once cosmopolitan and charming. The Pest side of the river is replete with shopping and stature, Parliament and politicians whereas the Buda side has a castle and cobblestones, coves and corners. Both share the Danube, a gorgeous force of nature shooing boats through and catching light in its rivulets. Crossing the river on one of the many bridges gives not only picture-perfect views of the historic buildings clustered at its edges but also a sense of the current, the speed, and the energy this river possesses.



Little did I know that Budapest is also renowned for it's pastries. I dare say that had I been aware of this small piece of information earlier, things might have been different. But we made up for lost time and sampled a sweet array of delicious creations. The Hungarians don't seem super keen on moderation and their pastries bear the brunt of these leanings - chock full of creams and fillings and marzipan and more. And they are marvelous. Was my favorite the chocolate torte or the marzipan cake? But what of the cheese strudel that fell into the category of fine art? It's like trying to choose your favorite gelato flavor - impossible.



We spent our afternoons not only in bakeries and coffee shops but also in dramatic churches and eye-opening museums. While not nearly as dour as the Museum of the Occupation in Riga the Hungarian National Museum lets it be known that Hungary's history had its periods of great difficulty and terror - but is also filled with examples of the country's long history and culture. The Parliament was closed to the public for the month of November so we were only able to admire it from the outside. And there is much to admire - it sits on the shore of the Danube, stretching in epic proportions and spiking upwards with towers of artistic grace.



There was a large market full of overpriced paprika, stalls of fruits and vegetables, salami and cuts of meat, and upstairs there were stalls selling prepared dishes. We found excellent Hungarian food, doled out in plastic bowls and reheated in the microwave. Go ahead and laugh but it was fabulous ghoulash, and honey chicken with noodles -- all eaten in the midst of little old ladies and other tourists and working men who dined quickly alone. Sometimes food tastes better without the pretense of table clothes and comfortable chairs.

I should also give credit where credit is due and unequivocally state that between Milan and Budapest the award for best Mexican food goes to Budapest. We had an excellent meal at a restaurant called The Iguana, replete with chips and salsa, tacos and burritos. And while in my past life I would have been embarrassed to say that I went purposefully for Mexican food while visiting Hungary, in this life I consider it a victory. Oh, Italians - why don't you understand the dining joys of Mexico? But I digress.



The Hungarian National Gallery is gigantic and full of Hungary's greatest pieces. It sits high above the Danube, looking out on a wonderful view of the Pest side of the river. Up here is also where Matyas church can be found, with colored tiles peppering the roof. And the Fisherman's Bastion, a series of white towers overlooking the river. This is the area of the cobblestones and cozy cafes - and a giant eagle statue that is more than a bit daunting. You can also easily get up to this area on foot; the Funicular seems like the easy answer but at $5 a pop you might as well take the stairs and make up for the non-stop pastry fest that you've found yourself celebrating.

Other recommendations: if you're leaving town at the end of the day - say 8:00pm out of Bergamo - be sure you get on the shuttle to the airport early. We spent more time on the bus trying to get to the airport than we did on the actual plane. We were shocked that the busload of Italians stayed so calm. Turns out they knew something we didn't: all you have to do is get yourself checked-in and then the plane is basically going to have to wait for you to haul your butt up to the gate, no matter how much you dawdle. People who were on the same shuttle bus as we were, and arrived at the check-in at the same time we did, somehow got lost in a time warp and didn't make it to the plane until about 20 minutes late. But rest assured, the plane will wait for you. So please feel free to grab that extra piece of pizza you were eyeing on your way to the security screening line. We can wait.



But overall, it was gloriously easy to visit Budapest. Just a short plane ride away, it's a cultural jewel that we would have loved to have a few more days to explore. And next time we'll bring our bathing suits so that we can go to the famous thermal baths. And we'll bring our bushel baskets of cash so that we can stay in the Four Seasons which sits in arguably one of the most gorgeous buildings on the Danube. And we'll remember that smoking is still allowed in public places in Budapest so we'll be prepared to absorb a fair amount of secondhand smoke. And there's got to be another Mexican restaurant somewhere in Budapest, right? Maybe we can find that too.