still waters

Lago Iseo seems a quiet lake in comparison to the others we've visited. It lacks the famous name of Como and the Roman ruins of Garda. What is does offer is what the locals profess to be the largest inhabited lake island in all of Europe, Monte Isola. An island where rowboats are tied in quietly undulating rows along the shore's edge. Where dusty groups of motor scooters await their long gone riders. And the creeping fragrance of rose bushes gives away their hiding places down secret paths.

This island has none of the postcard bric-a-bric ruckus that seems to overrun otherwise beautiful places like Bellagio and Como. Instead, it's a modest showcase of quiet buildings and crooked paths, balconies with laundry drying and plants blossoming. With olive trees to spare.



On the small island you'll eventually look up and notice Monte Isola's small bell tower. At that point you're ready to find yourself a path to it. Just wander the thin streets suffocated by quiet buildings until you get there. The walk to the church is a bit up and a bit down. Around a corner and back around. There'll be doors left open and if you peek inside you'll see lunches being had at thick wooden tables. You'll see old water bottles set on stoops in what we imagine is a simple yet brilliant code for bottled water delivery.



You'll quickly reach a small church with a small garden. And you'll probably be the only people in the silent church. When we entered the only sermon being delivered was that of a humming housefly that refused to sit still.

While we were walking back down to the ferry landing, a sun shower spilt from above. But by the time the ferry whisked us away, the weather had cleared and we were headed back to Iseo for the perfect lakeside lunch. Panini and salads and an exceptional view. Plus another sun shower to boot.



Monte Isola was nice because it was quiet and a bit crooked. It's personality hadn't been burnished by tourism's steady flow. Iseo is the kind of place where waiting at the train station coffee bar you'll find yourself sitting on plastic lawn furniture, watching old guys come and go, and an old Madonna song will come over the radio. And you'll remember that you're in a place far from home. And you'll like it.