the grass is always greener

It's relatively easy to settle into a city. You begin to adopt its norms. To accustom yourself to its standards. And to wean yourself of the little things that used to be so normal for you.

But then, you break free and get on a cheap flight to Krakow. And nothing is the same.

You feel like an alien who has landed on an unknown planet. You walk around pointing and admiring and wondering why isn't it like this where I live?



Did you know Krakow has coffee shops where you can order all sorts of flavored coffee drinks and get them "to go?" Or you can sit on a sofa and stay there, chatting with whomever you've brought along.

Have you heard that in Krakow there are substantially-sized people walking the streets and that they don't all wear stiletto heels? I'd swear I actually saw several women wearing flats.

Were you aware that in Krakow for less than 50 American cents you can buy a local snack - a delicious bagel-like round of seasoned bread - off of any street corner and join the rest of Poland walking around, enjoying the crisp fall weather and eating your own round of bread.



And let's not even talk about the mall.

Italy is a fabulous place but there is not really coffee to go, there are always stilettos, and there will never be a decent snack available on the street, let alone for under 2 dollars. Krakow has all of these things and more.

Krakow is as charmingly "European" as any European city we've visited. The presence of Jagiellonian University means it's filled with a youthful energy and intellect. The large piazza at the center of the old town is surrounded with historic buildings, sculpture, and churches. There's incredible food to be had, gorgeous tree-filled parks to enjoy, and a rich culture and history to explore.



In Krakow we ate very well for very little. Large steaming bowls of red borscht with potatoes. Pierogi stuffed with mushrooms and saurkraut. Horseradish-covered roast meats. Dumplings and polish sausage and soft cherry-laden cakes.

We ate in a small milk bar packed with people digging into their meals with elbows set firmly on the tables. Shared a picnic table during the University street festival and drank hot wine with our food. Ate kebabs on the street and found a vegetarian restaurant with great enchiladas and falafel.



We visited Wawel Hill which is historically important for all of Poland and also the source of a popular legend describing the vanquishing of Krakow's dragon. There are the royal apartments, a historic cathedral, a perilous bell tower (although not as perilous as Bologna's), several museums and what is said to be a dragon's cave.

St. Mary's Church, in the main plaza, is beautiful and we were lucky to catch the hourly bugle call on several occasions. Issuing from the cathedral's tower the call goes on for several bars before it stops mid-note and the horn disappears quickly into the tower.



Everything was going so well. So smoothly. Until our return flight when we were schooled in the equation of fog + budget airline = you're not going anywhere. So while we can say honestly that we love Krakow we cannot say that a 6 hour delay in the Krakow airport is any great joy. Even when the airline gives you a free salami and butter sandwich.

We made it back to Milan eventually and while tiredly walking to our apartment thought of how great it would be to grab a large coffee to go.