long swiss weekend

There isn't enough time to properly describe our weekend jaunt. We were in the Ticino region of Switzerland and visited castles in Bellinzona, hiked in Valle Verzasca and rode a very warm rail car through the Centovalli. The best way to describe our long weekend may be Roger Ebert/Gene Siskel style with two giant thumbs up.

Really, the whole time we were amazed by what we had found and where we were. In fact, when we got off the bus, Stefano says that I whacked him and squealed in sheer joy. I believe him. Because when you step off a bus and are surrounded by mountains, a clear turquoise river lined with white stones, blue sky above, and trees scaling the mountain sides it's hard to know how to react. Sensory overload is a luxury.



We had spent the day before cavorting along castle walls and crashing weddings. Actually, we were just trying to eat our (Swiss!) cheese picnic at one of the castles when it so happened that someone was having their wedding reception there. We stayed cool and hid in the corner - the castle is a public treasure after all - until the bride and groom came swinging by for photos. We tried to flee up the castle ramparts but no sooner had we taken shelter on a tower top when the two lovebirds came our way for a romantic photo shoot. We scurried past them with a "complimenti!" (congratulations) and went to the opposite side of the castle to finish our market day picnic. It takes more than a bride and groom to ruin the joy of a wedge of cheese you can't find in the United States and a hunk of homemade bread.

Switzerland, by the way, makes Milan look cheap. No, really. We were in a constant state of sticker shock. Just when you think that Milan restaurants have the monopoly on over-priced pasta, you venture into Italian-speaking Switzerland and realize oh-no-no! there's always room for improvement in that area. And coffee... double the price for half the taste and charm. Switzerland is lucky that it's gorgeous enough to get away with such egregious behavior. The problem seems to be that the country, and its merchants, know that.



But back to the beauty. Unstoppable and unbelievable natural beauty. We took a ten mile hike and almost every foot of it was gorgeous. Really. Sure, at some parts we were hungry and couldn't believe that we still had 3 hours to go, but then we stopped for some over-priced pasta in a village along the way, and we were fine. Actually, giddy. So giddy that we climbed up and over rocks and found secret waterfalls and got in them. It was like Hawaii had come to Europe. Water was misting down from one waterfall three or four stories up, that fell to the next waterfall, that then tumbled its way to us. And then down past us and further below. And it was clear and crisp and cool - because it was coming from somewhere up high where nature makes crystal clear water and sends it down to us like a gift.



And the water flowing through the valley is actually turquoise. Really. I haven't done anything to adjust this photo - nature in Switzerland doesn't need Photoshop. I don't understand it but I love it. And it's this way for the whole stretch. You could inventory the rocks without ever taking them out of the riverbed.

We spent all day hiking and exploring and after an ice cream sundae in a small village populated by rock cottages, we went back to our Osteria -- a combination restaurant and hotel in the middle of nowhere -- where we had all the dinner our pocket change could afford. Surprise! Turns out the Osteria doesn't take credit cards. Good thing the waterfall keeps running and the sheep keep bahhing even without tips.



We ended our night in the valley by finding the big dipper right in front of us framed by the looming mountains, and ducking because we happened to be standing too near where the bats come to roost at night.

I can't say enough about where we were and but I have to stop now. We have to pack. We leave for Prague tomorrow.